Stuff about food, sometimes drink, only occasional recipes

Sunday, 3 August 2014

An hog's paunch

Having cleansed it well, wash it, first with vinegar and salt, and afterwards with water. Then take hog's flesh pounded to a paste; mix with it the brains of three hogs, cleaned from the fibres, together with hard eggs. To this put cloves of garlick; add whole pepper, and make of it a proper consistence with broth. Beat up pepper, lingusticum, assafoetida, anise-seed, ginger, a small quantity of rue, the best garum, and a little oil. With this composition stuff the paunch, but not too tightly, that it may not be much agitated in boiling. Tie the mouth of it well, and put it into a boiling cauldron. Then take it out, and prick it with a needle, lest it should burst. When it is parboiled, take it out again, and hang it up to smoke, that it may acquire a proper flavour. Lastly, when you untie it for the purposes of dressing it, add garum, wine, and a little oil; cut it open with a small knife, and serve it up with liquamen and ligusticum.

from Antiquitates Culinariae Or Curious Tracts Relating to the Culinary Affairs of the Old English, by the Reverend Richard Warner, 1791

[Link]

This recipe is one of two attributed by Warner to Apicius, a collection of Roman recipes from the late fourth or early fifth century by several authors.

Notes: Liquament and garum are the same thing, prepared thus, according to Warner:
the guts of a large fish, and a variety of small fish, were put into a vessel, and well salted, and being exposed to the sun, were continued in that state until putrid. By this process a liquid was produced in a short time, which, being drained off, was the liquamen or garum above mentioned. The best garum was made from the scombrus; the worst from the tunny-fish.
• The scombrus is the Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus). 
• Warner also explains: “The lingusticum was an herb found in Tuscany, of a very hot nature, and considered as greatly beneficial to the stomach”. This likely refers to Osha root (Lingusticum porteri), used by herbalists today to treat indigestion.

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