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On the difficult business of buying veal.
“In the choice of veal be sure to chuse it fat and white, and observe when it is cut that the juices follow the knife, then you are sure it is good meat and will dress well; if it is husky and dry it will eat so. The flesh of a cow-calf is whiter than bull, but the lean is not so firm; the fillet of the former is preferred on account of the udder. If the bloody ven in the shoulder looks blue or red, and when you squeeze it bleeds freely, it is fresh; but if it looks black or yellow, and the knuckle withered and dry, it is stale. The breast and neck taints first at the upper end, which you will know by its looking yellow or green; rub your finger on, and if it smells musty don't buy it, but if it look red or blueish and has a good smell it is fresh; the leg is known by its stiffness in the knuckle joint; if limber, and the flesh feels clammy, with yellow or green specks on, it is stale, if you smell under the fat or udder, it will smell of an agreeable flavour if fresh, if stale it will smell musty; the loin taints first under the kidnies. Put a skewer under the kidney, and if it comes out clean, and smells well, it is fresh; if slimy and smells musty, it is stale. Be sure to buy the close side if you can, as it dresses better, and eats mellower than the open side.”
From The English Art of Cookery, according to the present Practice; Being a complete Guide to all Housekeepers, on a Plan entirely new (1788) by Richard Briggs
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